Steamed clams are easy to prepare, and make for a tasty casual dinner when served with melted butter. But with just a little more work, you can cook clams that make a hearty, delicious dish fit for company.
I like to serve both of these dishes with noodles, which soak up the sauce. If you prefer, omit the noodles, and serve the clams with bread.
Sake-steamed clams with butter, leeks, seaweed and udon noodles
People tend to think of udon as the thick noodles served in soup at inexpensive Japanese restaurants, but there are many types. For this recipe, buy dried udon that’s about the thickness of linguine.
The Japanese leek is smaller than the European leek, which is sometimes called a Welsh onion. Japanese negi are about 1cm in diameter, and because they are more tender, the whole thing can be eaten. With European leeks, only the white and pale green parts are tender enough to be eaten, although the leek tops can be simmered with other ingredients to flavour soup stocks.
For this dish, use clams with shells about 4cm (1½ in) long or smaller. Small mussels are a good substitute for the clams, but don’t use the large, green-lip variety, because they are tough and coarse.
The kombu is optional, but it does add a gentle umami flavour; if you leave it out, you will probably need to add a little more salt. To vary the flavour, try substituting fresh shiso leaves (cut into a fine chiffonade) in place of the shredded nori.
This dish takes less than 10 minutes to cook.
600-750 grams (21-27oz) small, fresh clams
2 Japanese leeks or 1 European leek
45 grams (1½oz) unsalted butter
60ml (¼ cup) sake
3 small pieces (about 5cm/2 in square) kombu seaweed (optional)
Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
150-170 grams (5-6oz) dried udon noodles
Finely shredded nori seaweed
1 Bring a pot of water to the boil and add the udon. Cook the noodles until they are still a little firm to the bite. When the udon is ready, drain it in a colander.
2 Rinse the clams under cool water, then drain in a colander. Briefly rinse the pieces of kombu, if using.
3 Rinse the leeks and trim off the stem ends. Slice the leeks on the diagonal into pieces about 1.5cm (2/3 in) wide. With Japanese leeks, use the entire leek, for European leeks, use only the white and pale green part.
4 Melt the butter in a pan placed over a medium flame, then add the leek and kombu. Sprinkle in a little salt, then cook for a few minutes, or until the leeks soften.
5 Pour the sake into the pan, bring to the boil, then simmer for about 30 seconds.
6 Add the clams, then cover the pan with a lid. Lower the flame, then simmer until the clams start to open, shaking the pan occasionally.
7 Quickly rinse the udon under hot water, then add to the pan. Mix well, then simmer until the udon is tender.
8 Taste the liquid and add more salt, if necessary. Season to taste with black pepper.
9 Fish out the pieces of kombu from the pan and finely julienne them. Add the pieces back to the pan. Mix in two large pinches of shredded nori, then serve immediately. Serves two.
Chilli-garlic clams with fish sauce, fresh coriander and rice noodles
Most people throw away the coriander root, but this part of the fresh stalk is incredibly flavourful. For this dish, use the root and about 2.5cm (1in) of the stalk. Reserve some of the leaves for the garnish.
125 grams (4½oz) dried rice noodles, about 3mm (1/8in) wide
600-750 grams (21-27oz) small, fresh clams
1 coriander root with 2.5cm (1 in) of the stalk
2-4 large garlic cloves, peeled
2-4 red bird’s-eye chillies
30ml (2tbsp) fish sauce
5 grams (1tsp) granulated sugar, or to taste
25ml (5tsp) fresh lime juice
A small handful of fresh coriander leaves
1 Bring a pot of water to the boil, add the rice noodles and cook just until they are pliable – do not overcook. Drain in a colander and rinse with cool water.
2 Rinse the clams under cool water, then drain in a colander.
3 Finely mince the coriander root and stalk. Slice the garlic cloves. Cut the chillies into thin rings, shaking out and discarding the seeds as you go. Roughly chop the coriander leaves.
4 Put the fish sauce, sugar and lime juice in a deep pan large enough to hold the clams comfortably. Bring to a simmer over a medium flame, then stir in the coriander root, garlic and chillies.
5 Add the clams, then cover the pan with the lid. Shake the pan occasionally and let the clams simmer until they open (about five minutes). Taste the sauce and correct the seasonings, if necessary.
6 Rinse the rice noodles under hot water, then add them to the pan. Stir well, them simmer until the rice noodles are hot.
7 Scatter the fresh coriander leaves on top, then serve.
Serves two.
Food styling: Nellie Ming Lee Kitchen: courtesy of Wolf at House of Madison
