Pity the poor cucumber. Legions await the first asparagus of spring. Fresh peas are prized like pearls. Sweet corn is praised, as is the vine-ripened tomato. Amid the bounty of summer, cucumber becomes the forgotten child, overshadowed by its showy siblings.

Cucumber should shine. Cool and crisp, it is the vegetable equivalent of a light breeze on a hot night. Cucumbers hint of sweetness and promise relief from the lingering humidity and hot sun. Like watermelon, it quenches thirst in a refreshing way.

So it is no surprise that quietly cucumber has become a summer staple: cut into sticks for vegetable platters, diced as the finishing touch on gazpacho, sliced as a garnish for cold poached salmon, or on its own, transformed into soups, salads and dips.

Cucumber has some natural partners. Dill and mint, both cool and cleansing in their own right, are at the top of the list. Fruits of any kind balance well with cucumber, whether tart like apples and lemons or sweet and acidic like pineapple and mango. Shrimp, scallops, salmon and tuna all benefit from the mild sweetness and cool, crisp crunch of the cucumber. Yogurt, sesame and vinegar-based dressings complement its flavor.

Oddly, cucumber, so light on its own, also seems to have a natural affinity for butter and cream. Saute cubed cucumber in browned butter or bake in heavy cream. Slather white bread with sweet butter, thinly slice cucumber and sandwich it all together to produce a truly delicious creation, the cucumber tea sandwich.

Cucumbers have a couple of other fine attributes — they are cheap, plentiful and almost always available. The most common supermarket variety is waxed on the outside to extend shelf life. Before using, the peel should be removed. During the summer, fresh, sweet unwaxed cucumbers can be found at farmers’ markets and some supermarkets.

Though not absolutely necessary, it is nice to remove the seeds. This is a simple job. Cut the peeled cucumber in half lengthwise and use a spoon to scoop out the seeds.

Also available is the pricier cucumber that goes by the name hothouse, seedless or English. Usually thin and long, this cucumber comes wrapped in plastic. Since the skin has not been waxed, peeling is neither necessary nor recommended. The seeds are smaller and there is no need to remove them.

The other common variety is the pickling cucumber, intended for exactly the use its name indicates.

As for taste, the regular standard cucumber wins hands down. It is the most likely to have that distinctive cucumber flavor and the mellow sweetness. The hothouse cucumber is prized more for its utility than for its taste. On the whole, it is not as flavorful, but it is still very useful. Since the seeds are always edible, you can use a whole slice. And whenever you want the green color of the cucumber peel, whether as the base for a canape or a layer in a vegetable tart, it is the way to go. Pickling cucumbers can be used for salads and the like, but they also tend to be less flavorful than standard cucumbers.

So it is all good news for the cucumber. Along with tomatoes and corn and tender young zucchini, cucumbers number among the many joys of summer.

SALAD

SHRIMP, CUCUMBER AND MANGO SALAD

THIS ORANGE-HUED SALAD USES MANGO TWO WAYS. THE FRUIT ACTS AS THE BASE FOR THE DRESSING AND IS ALSO AN INTEGRAL PART OF THE SALAD. RAW ONIONS, EVEN SOME SWEET ONES, CAN PACK A POWERFUL PUNCH, SO BE SURE TO SOAK THEM IN ICE WATER TO REMOVE SOME OF THEIR BITE.

Water

1/2 medium sweet onion, such as Vidalia, thinly sliced

1 medium (about 8 ounces) cucumber, peeled, seeded and thinly sliced

1/4 cup plus 1 teaspoon white-wine vinegar

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1 1/2 pounds medium or large shrimp, peeled and deveined

3 mangoes, peeled, pitted and cut into cubes

Pepper, preferably white pepper, to taste

1/2 cup mild olive oil

Fill a small bowl with ice water, add the sliced onions and set aside.

Place the cucumbers in a large nonreactive bowl and toss with 1 teaspoon vinegar, 1/2 teaspoon sugar and salt. Set aside.

Bring a large pot of lightly salted water to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water and set aside. When the water boils, add the shrimp, remove the pot from the heat and cover. Set aside about 4 minutes until the shrimp are pink and just beginning to curl. Transfer the shrimp to the ice water; set aside to cool.

In a food processor fitted with the metal blade or blender, combine 1/2 cup cubed mango, the remaining 1/4 cup vinegar, remaining 1 teaspoon sugar, salt and pepper to taste; puree to make a dressing. With the motor running, slowly add the oil until thoroughly incorporated.

Drain the cucumbers and place in a large bowl. Drain the shrimp and onions; add them to the cucumbers. Add the remaining cubed mango and mango dressing and toss to combine. Cover and refrigerate until ready to serve. Makes 4 servings.

Per serving: 461 calories, 36 grams protein, 22 grams fat, 31 grams carbohydrates, 259 milligrams cholesterol, 315 milligrams sodium, 4 grams total fiber, 43 percent calories from fat.

ENTREE

SAUTEED SCALLOPS WITH CUCUMBERS AND ORANGE SAUCE

THE ORANGE SAUCE STARTS OUT AS A CLASSIC FRENCH BUTTER SAUCE, BUT IS TRANSFORMED AS IT IS ADDED TO THE SAUTEED CUCUMBERS AND MIXED WITH THE BROWNED BITS FROM THE PAN AND THE SCALLOPS. IT’S HARD TO DESCRIBE, EXCEPT TO SAY IT’S DELICIOUS.

1 large (about 12 ounces) cucumber, peeled, seeded and cut into 1-inch cubes

1 teaspoon white wine vinegar

1/2 teaspoon sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

About 8 tablespoons (4 ounces) butter

3/4 cup fresh-squeezed orange juice

1/2 cup dry white wine

1 1/2 pounds sea scallops

Fresh-ground black pepper, to taste

About 1/2 cup flour, for dredging

1/2 cup fine-chopped onions

Fine-grated zest of 1 orange

In a medium nonreactive bowl, combine the cucumbers, vinegar, sugar and 1/4 teaspoon salt; toss to coat. Set aside 30 minutes.

Cut 4 tablespoons butter into cubes and refrigerate; set the remaining butter aside.

In a small nonreactive saucepan over medium-high heat, bring the orange juice and wine to a boil and cook until reduced by half. Whisking constantly, add a few of the cold butter cubes and whisk until completely melted. Repeat, using a few of the cubes at a time, until all of the cold butter cubes have been incorporated. Remove the sauce from the heat; cover to keep warm.

In a large nonreactive skillet over medium heat, melt 1 tablespoon remaining butter.

Season the scallops with salt and pepper to taste; set aside. Working in three batches, lightly dredge the scallops in flour and add them to the hot butter, being careful not to crowd the pan. Cook the scallops just until golden brown on both sides. Transfer the scallops to a plate and cover with aluminum foil. Repeat with the remaining scallops and 2 tablespoons butter.

The pan’s bottom will be coated with browned flour. Add the remaining 1 tablespoon butter and the onions. Cook, stirring, 3 minutes until the onions begin to soften. Drain the cucumbers, add them to the pan and cook 4 to 5 minutes, scraping the bottom of the pan to loosen the browned bits. Add the reserved orange sauce, orange zest and scallops and stir gently about 1 minute until the sauce thickens and the scallops heat through. Serve immediately.

Per serving: 313 calories, 29 grams protein, 15 grams fat, 13 grams carbohydrates, 79 milligrams cholesterol, 806 milligrams sodium, 1 gram total fiber, 43 percent calories from fat.