Briny Irish Pub

305 S. Andrews Ave., Fort Lauderdale, 954-376-4742, BrinyIrishPubs.com

This 10-year-old waterfront eatery dripping with nautical relics is steering a different course at the transitioning Las Olas Riverfront.

New partner William Walden has been elevating the menu to gastropub fare since starting this winter and is planning a relaunch this fall.

“Nobody can believe I did this,” says Walden, an acclaimed chef who helmed the Tavern at the Wick and the shuttered Bistro Gastronomie, both fine-dining restaurants in Boca Raton. “My mission: artistic cuisine with the greatest depth of flavor.”

Best-selling additions are flash-fried calamari with red-curry aioli ($12), Maryland crab cakes with Creole remoulade ($14, appetizer; $24, entrée), spicy Thai basil chicken ($15), beer-braised short-rib Irish stew ($19) and slow-braised baby-back ribs with pineapple slaw ($14, half rack; $20, full rack).

“The menu is burgeoning and changing to have more of an emphasis on seasonal and fresh produce, the freshest fish and seafood,” Walden says. “The old Irish classics are refined and more authentic.”

Exemplifying his changes are seared ahi tuna with spicy sesame noodle salad ($14) and seared scallops Provencales with ratatouille Nicoise and grilled zucchini ($21).

His favorite new dessert is Nellie and Joe’s Key lime pie ($7).

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